Nothing like a warm spring evening with a glass of wine at a gallery listening to the experts talk – about fashion and art. The two go well together and Marlborough Gallery’s latest exhibition made me think of this: Irving Penn: How to style your home with fashion photos.
Couture, and vintage couture in particular, has become almost as much a part of collectable art and interior design as it is a key part of the fashion.
Friday night I popped into one of London’s chic’est galleries, the Marlborough in Mayfair, to see late great Irving Penn’s fashion photography and to hear his story. And what a story, indeed.
And of course, there’s also the possibility of running into old friends and making new ones. London is slowly buzzing back to action and invitations are coming in – but this was one of those evenings where I actually went to see and listen rather than just be entertained.
Irving Penn’s fashion photography as told by curator Susanna Brown
For nearly an hour Susanna Brown, who has been curator of photographs at London’s Victoria & Albert Museum since 2008, spoke about his career, technique and the Penn photographs on the walls at the Marlborough.
And it was a riveting story. American born Penn lived from 1917-2009, a perfectionist to his fingertips and obsessive about his art and craft. And a minimalist. He would spend hours, sometimes days, preparing a single still life shoot to get the lighting and every other detail absolutly right.
And then he developed the pictures himself which was another long process. It is little surprise that his photographs were snapped up by Vogue and fashion memorabilia collectors, but they have also become interior pieces on a par modern works of art.
Irving Penn: How to style your home with fashion photos
Art is a very personal choice – unlike design where there are many do’s and don’ts – and how you hang your fashion photos are a matter of choice and taste. There are many variables such as what the room looks like and the size and value of the photograph. Is it colour, large or small and what’s the messsage or feel of the image?
A photograph on on paper however high quality is likely more fragile than a canvas, so if the photo is expensive I wouldn’t put it in the kitchen or bathroom or anywhere humid. Fashion photographs are particularly fabulous in a large hallway – a stylish welcome for visitors.
For my money I’d place a super modern couture shot by a living photographer on the wall next to antique furniture – and the other way round: I’d hang a vintage shot in an ornate frame among contemporary furniture. It’s in the mix: contrast and texture and clashing periods. The image becomes a stand-out object and a conversation piece rather than an item that “fits in” with existing decor and therefore blends in and ‘disappears’.
With Irving Penn: How to style your home with fashion photos there is a clear link to Scandi style living. Penn was famously minimalist in his approach to style and photography, unlike other fashion photographers who like to add atmosphere with stylish furniture or cool, edgy scenes that clash or complement the model and the fashion.
Penn’s pictures are about the person and the clothes – not the surroundings – so his images are simple, focused and very Nordic looking even though Penn was an American.
Photographs as wall art
There were quite a few of Penn’s famous photographs at the Marlborough – not least his iconic shot of wife Lisa in a Harlequin dress. But there was more to Irving Penn’s photography than fashion. His New York Still Life from 1947 featured alongside portraits from Africa.
The evening was one of those occasions where you learn something and enjoy at the same time. Fellow gallery goers were quite young and clearly fashionistas – creative with their clothes and colours..